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Chanel Complice #93, Éclairé #94, Furtif #95 and Infini #97 Ombre Essentielles – Fall 2012

June 25, 2012

Chanel has released a number of new single eyeshadow shades in the Ombre Essentielle formula ($28.50 for 1.6 g/ .05 oz). These contain a new formula that I feel are a hybrid of the regular powder shadows and the Ombres Perleés de Chanel from spring of 2011. They aren’t quite as creamy as the spring palette and a slightly more powdery feel, but not like a typical eyeshadow. I played with these a little and found that alone, they are a bit sheer. Add just a little bit of a moisturized base (cream shadow, eye cream or non-matte primer) and the color intensifies quite a bit. I’ll show you what I mean further down in the swatches.

I’m not entirely sure how many new shades there are available in the US. Promotion sheets showed there were 5-6 shades to be released on a variety of other blogs such as Beauty Crazed and Jayded Dreaming. Rouge Deluxe tweeted some previews of Asia-Exclusives linked here. I received four of the shades in my order from Bergdorfs in Complice #93, Éclairé #94, Furtif #95 and Infini #97. Also at this time I’ve noticed Nordstrom.com lists these same four shades online. Since I haven’t seen these at the counters in person yet, I’m not sure if the US is only getting four shades, if there was a delay in shipment, or if they will be exclusive to select locations.

For now, here are the four shades I have:

  • Complice #93 is a soft iridescent peach champagne (much like a peachier version of the discontinued Chanel Island eyeshadow)
  • Éclairé #94 is a pale silvery gold (more yellow than Chanel Gold but also more silvery since it contains a lot of silver particles)
  • Furtif #95 is a steel blue grey metallic (similar to Chanel Silvery but more dove-blue and more shimmery)
  • Infini #97 is a platinum silver sparkle (compared to Chanel Platine, Infini isn’t quite as pale and has more silver and more sparkle)

Lasting power was about the same as the Ombrees Perles palette from spring two seasons ago: medium lasting power. The formula is quite flexible in terms of coverage. Apply with a lighter fluffier brush and you get a sheer wash of color/glimmer. Apply with a denser brush over a base and the difference is quite dramatic (in my opinion). The glimmer is truly lovely. Visible shimmer without frost. I suspect you can layer these over other shadows but I haven’t tried that yet.

Close ups:

Here you can see the difference swatched with or without a moisturized base. The color lineup reminds me of the limited-edition Tokyo Happening Collection from several years ago.

Comparisons to a few existing Chanel shades. In the past week I’ve received a number of requests for additional comparisons (via email, twitter and blog comments). I apologize but I am limited on time right now and cannot accommodate all requests. Right now I am struggling to review, photograph and compare all the items I purchased and balance my time with other obligations (trying not to sacrifice quality for quantity). I do see many of my readers who have jumped in to help answer questions when they can. Thank you so much! I don’t know what I would do without you!

For now, the few comparisons I did have time to pull, you can see that this season’s eyeshadows have a special glimmer: compared to Chanel Island, Gold, Silvery and Platine.

I am really smitten with the new formula. I think it’s quite lovely, however I find the $28.50 price tag really steep for a single shadow. I’m not sure I’m 100% in love just because of the price. I still think they are worth taking a look at and playing with. The formula is unique and the finish excellent, but as you can see from the swatches above, it’s probably really easy to duplicate a similar effect with Urban Decay shadows or quite possibly some MAC or NARS.
U.S. girls – at the counters did you see the other shades Noir or Indiscreet? To everyone, have you seen the shadows in person? Thoughts? 

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