Chanel

Chanel Fall 2016 Le Rouge Collection N°1 and Ultrawear Flawless Collection Picks

August 29, 2016

 

Today I have a few picks from a couple Chanel collections for fall. There are a series of new product launches, the first being the Le Rouge Collection N°1 and second being the Ultrawear Flawless Foundation Collection. I’ve been a long time fan of Chanel beauty and the fall launches are usually the ones I look forward to the most for new innovative products and shades that have a modern twist on classic colors. This year’s launches so far fall short of my expectations in terms of innovative colors and I found the options this year to be some of the most boring and unoriginal shades I think I’ve ever tested. I will admit that I do believe there are only so many ways to do red – perhaps at this point it’s already all been done? The quality for the most part is still excellent and I did find some things I have been really happy with – in general though, I feel the Chanel fall launches lack excitement, especially compared to previous collections.

 

In addition to the first color launch for fall Chanel a new foundation called Le Teint Ultra Tenue Ultrawear Flawless Foundation which is a fluid long-wear formula. The powder foundation has also been reformualted to a new silky formula called Le Teint Ultra Tenue Ultrawear Flawless Compact Foundation. I got a small sample of the liquid in shades 30 and 40 (my usual colors) to test. 30 is an almost perfect match, just a tiny bit too pink on my skin. It blended seamlessly on my skin, gave medium natural coverage, had impressive lasting power and stayed put all day without getting oily or patchy. The only down side is by evening I saw tiny little bumps surface along the sides of my face. After testing two days I saw bumps get worse so I suspect I am allergic to it which is a shame because it wears so beautifully. I have not yet tested the powder foundation but hope to go back to the counter soon to do so. There are two new blushes featured in this collection called Evening Beige and Rosewood which are not the baked formula (yay!!). More details below as I work my way through the colors I picked out from the two launches.

What I bought, listed below, first from the Ultra Wear Flawless Foundation Collection:

  • Joues Contraste in Rosewood is a medium rose pink
  • Joues Contraste in Evening Beige is a warm shimmering copper beige

From the Le Rouge Collection N°1 Collection:

  • Joues Contraste in Rouge Profond is a matte red
  • Le Vernis Nail Gloss in Rouge Radical is a transparent jelly red
  • Le Vernis in Rouge Puissant is a deep red
  • Rouge Allure in Rouge Ingenue is a nude cream beige

 

Swatches:

 

 

Up first are the three blushes. All three are the regular US formula which I prefer over the baked formula you’ll find in other countries. These are soft, finely milled, smooth powders that are easy to dust on the skin. All three are darker so if you’re medium-tan to deep in skintone and have found most Chanel blushes to be too light to show up, you will rejoice that Chanel has finally launched colors that will show up on your skintone! The pigment is quite intense so a super light hand is needed. I found the red in Rouge Profond to have an almost vintage feel. For my skintone I need a very light hand to be able to wear this and one swipe too many results in a clown-like look and almost burnt on my skin (scroll down to the bottom for a look).
For the two blush shades in the foundation launch, so far you can find them both online at Chanel and Neiman Marcus. At the moment, Nordstrom only has Rosewood and not Evening Beige. Rosewood is lighter and easier to wear compared to the fall red, but the intensity is still a bit much for me. By comparison I’ve just been completely blown away by the Marc Jacobs Beauty Air Blush (yes they’re very expensive but are amazing, review soon) which looks better on the skin compared to these. Last but not least, Evening Beige is probably the one unique shade of the bunch – it’s a warm coppery shimmer. I don’t really see beige in it, but I suppose one could call it a coppery beige. My personal preference is for the Golden Sun blush which is less warm and more of a beigey color.

 

 

Next is the Rouge Allure in Rouge Ingenue. Most of the colors launched are variations of red and this was the only light neutral. The color is a light beige cream which is absolutely gorgeous. Unfortunately the color went on my lips patchy and required a lot of blending, blotting and reapplying to get smooth application. I found this odd since I’ve had great success with most Rouge Allure lipstick formulas – I suspect the paleness of the color might have played a part in my application issues. Swatch comparisons below for some similar colors.

 

Left to right:

 

 

Last but not least the items I usually get the most excited about, the nail colors. There are two in the Le Rouge Collection N°1, one is the Le Vernis in Rouge Puissant which is a deep red cream. This one is almost identical to the discontinued Dragon, the Rouge Puissant is just a tiny bit darker. Once dried on the nails it deepens in color and appears to be a dark red that ages my hands. I would say unless you’re a Chanel collector, pass on this one. The other color is a Nail Gloss formula called Rouge Radical which is a transparent jelly red. I did not know what to expect with this one and was pleasantly surprised to find how opaque and pigmented it was once on the nails. Even though it has a transparent formula it covers the nail entirely for a bright red look. I absolutely love this one and by now it has already sold out at many locations (you can still find it online at Saks, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s).

 

 

 

 

Comparison swatches, note that the Pirate shown is the older formula (I have not seen the new one to compare), Gitane is the new formula reviewed here:

 

Look from the weekend, on the left is Rouge Profond applied lightly, on the right is Evening Beige on the cheeks. Rouge Ingenue Rouge Allure worn in both photos. Foundation worn is Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Foundation in 125/Y315 with Armani Luminous Silk Powder Foundation 4 to set.

 

 

Stand outs to me include the Nail Gloss in Rouge Radical and Joues Contraste in Evening Beige. I had high hopes for the new foundation but unfortunately caused tiny bumps to form so it’s a no-go for me. I passed on a lot from the the reds collection – I think red is hard for me to pull off, especially on the eyes which seemed to be a heavy focus for the illusion d’ombre, quad and liners. The rest just wasn’t really my cup of tea color-wise, but quick swatching at the counter showed the quality to still be on point. I do think the Rouge Profond blush is unique even if I think red blush is a bit boring – I keep hoping it will grow on me, but I have to apply with a very careful light hand. Even then, sometimes after it sets and warms on my skin the color darkens so I have to go back with my powder brush and blend along the edges. I’m usually hesitant to post negative reviews because I don’t want to offend anyone, especially in this case if you loved the pieces in this collection. I want to reiterate that products are great quality-wise, for reds I would have been head over heels had Chanel relaunched previously discontinued colors like Cosmic Violine, Tulip Noire or something that I feel are a bit more special.
Do note that many of the pieces in the red collection are limited-edition and some have already sold out online. You may have to do a bit of shopping around to find all the items if they’ve been on your list so I do recommend buying sooner than later if any of the colors speak to you.
You can find both the Le Rouge Collection N°1 and Ultrawear Flawless Collection online at Chanel.com. By now I’ve spotted both in store near me. Also available online at Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s.
Have you checked out Chanel fall bits yet? What did you think?

 

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  • Anonymous

    Evening Beige seems very close to MAC Warm Soul. I love that shade but don't care much for MAC powders, so I am excited to give this one a closer look.

  • Thanks, as always, for the thoughtful review. I've been so looking forward to your perspective on Le Rouge No 1. I'm sorry to hear you didn't think much of it. It's been a very long time since I was particularly excited about a Chanel collection, but this one did it for me. In particular, I love Le Rouge Profond, which works really well on my skin (lighter than yours, NC15-20). As you said, it requires a light hand. But the finished look gives me that "in from the cold" look that I love in autumn and winter–yet it's not as extreme as, say, Nars Exhibit A (which I also love, but have to be so, so cautious–almost too cautious–when applying). I haven't tried the other items you got (tho I totally covet the Rouge Radical), but I got the RA Velvets in Rouge Vie and Rouge Audace, and they're beautiful. Vie leans quite pink (which I like), while Audace is deep yet blotted down is very wearable during the day. However, I cannot wear the eyeshadow quad, gorgeous tho it is: the red shadow actually works, but the browns and tan are too warm for me. They make me look tired. So…a different experience than yours. I was quite interested in the Rosewood blush, but your review makes me think I've probably seen it before so…maybe I'll let it go, and will look forward to your forthcoming Marc Jacobs blush review instead.

  • Anonymous

    Evening Beige seems like the only one of the bunch I'd like to check out. I was not wowed by the collection either – I was completely in love with the Chanel Autumn 2015 collection, but not so this year. Funny side note, I tried out golden sun and it pulled pink on my cheeks – I've got a lot of green and orange yellow undertones that I was surprised how it ended up looking – not beige at all! Thanks for the honest review! Cheer, Cherie

    • golden sun is pink on me as well!! a bronzey pink, but still definitely "blushed"! I can never make sense of how it looks in the pan verses on my face! 🙂

  • I am so impressed by the nail varnishes, they look so sheer, yet appear very opaque!
    Lottie
    http://www.flareaforte.com

  • amazing review!

    lu | coco & louis

  • Nemo

    I bought the entire collection and then bought backups. I have a very fair complexion with rosy tones, dark blonde hair with highlights, and gray/green/blue eyes. This collection is perfect for me. The eye quad is the most beautiful I have ever owned.

    • I agree! I also think this collection is perfect for fair neutral skins! The red eyeshadow in the quad doesn't look me tired, because it is brownish. The effect is more terracotta on me (I have neutral pink undertone and this one is the best red collection I've ever tried)

    • Anonymous

      Nemo, I had the same experience as you. I've never bought backups before but I bought extra eyeliners, mascara, and the deeply beautiful Rouge Audace velvet lipstick. These colours work well on my fair skin. Sabrina I always appreciate your perfect pictures, and unbiased reviews. and it's good we all like different things-something for every one, in the wide world of cosmetics 🙂
      Best regards,
      Carole MacLeod

  • Thanks for the honest review Sabrina. No one collection will be everyone's cup of tea. Frankly you made me feel alot better, because I did not care much for the color products, and my skin can't tolerate the new foundation either. Glad to know it's not just me!

  • JCz

    Hi Sabrina – how many coats of Rouge Radical did you use to get it that opaque? Its a beautiful color! Both colors look beautiful on you.

  • I had no idea they did two formulas!

  • The Evening Beige blush is so beautiful on you, Sabrina. And, although my coloring is quite different from yours, I related to what you were saying about red blushers. They darken on me as well and require a second round of blending to get them right so I decided to just give Rouge Profond a miss. It's a beautiful color, but not for me. As for the eye products, that's an entirely different story. With my dark, warm, moss green eyes, those rich warm browns, russet red, and burnished amber are perfect for me. I bought the quad, a pencil, and an Illusion d'Ombre and have gotten so much pleasure out of wearing them.

  • Hey Sabrina! I'm actually relieved to hear that you weren't super fussed about this collection either! I adore Chanel but I was a little disappointed, especially with the eyeshadows (the creams were almost tragic ☹️)… the Eros eyeliner was different, though, I kinda dig it.
    I almost bought the rouge profond but I was worried about it being too pigmented against my pale skin… tho if any full-on red blush is ever going to work, I imagine this one is muted enough to give it a go.

    I had a question, though, about the blushes: you say these are not baked, but ones outside the US are? I was always confused because usually when you see a raised dome, it indicates baked over pressed… but that's not right? what about their eye quads, then? are they all just domed for the heck of it??… it's all very puzzling to me haha

    thanks!

  • Anonymous

    I was never a huge Chanel fan, except for the foundations, but I have to say this is the first collection that made me pay attention! I really like Le Rouge No.1 look on Kristen Stewart and I'm loving the Rouge Charnel #56 lipstick, the brightest red I ever worn.

  • OH! I almost forgot. if you check out the new powder, please please please do a compare, (of sorts) with other Chanel powders? Les Beiges, the loose powder, the double perfection powder foundation, whatever you can do! I currently have been using les beiges kind of in place of foundation, just hourglass veil primer and then a sweep of beiges to sorta matte down any summer shine *just* a touch, and am on my way… so I'm super curious how light/heavy/whatever the new powder is! 🙂

  • sade

    thank you for the honest & thorough review! its posts like this that keep me a regular and very keen reader.

  • 100% agree. It's a disappointing color collection. I had higher hopes for the new Chanel director.

  • Reading through everyone's comments, it is interesting to see how polarizing this collection was. There are those of us who absolutely love it and think it is one of Chanel's better ones, and then there are those of you who were utterly disappointed by it. I think from Chanel's point of view that made this collection a success–a bit controversial, a bit edgy, a bit unexpected–just what they wanted by way of introducing Lucia Pica's first Chanel color collection. It grabbed peopl's attention and, love it or hate it, it certainly got people talking about Chanel again. After more than a few lack-luster color products, Chanel really needed to shake things up a bit without alienating their customer base. Someone might not like all the warm browns and reds, but I sincerely doubt it is stopping anyone from looking forward to seeing what the holiday collection has to offer. And, by the way, sneak-peeks indicate it is completely different from fall. 🙂

  • I don't know anyone who can do red eye products without looking like a pink rat, but that aside I bought the Rouge Profond as I have nothing that colour and used with a slight hand it's lovely on. Also bought both polish. I am having real issues with longevity with the gel effect formula since the relaunch. 3 days max. before chipping in my nail rims. I'll stick with it because I am a total Chanel polish addict and no one else except Christian Louboutin gets me to part with my cash quicker when it comes to new polish colours but I am struggling with it's performance. Regarding the red lips…..there is no point me buying red lips from anyone else as since it launched I only wear Louboutain red. The only variation is in what finish. My corpse will have Loubi lips of that I am sure. I found my perfect red like Anna Wintour found her perfect bob. I will experiment with other colours in berries, nudes, pinks but not 'my red'. Lovely feature Sabrina…..you've really captured the redness of this launch. Xxxx

    • LOL Well, coming from a "pink rat", the quad isn't really about red eyes although a red centric, renegade look is what we see in the promo pictures. The red in the quad is actually more russet when applied and it layers or acts as a transitional hue between the other shades. In that sense, it adds complexity to the brown and amber shades into which it is blended. Since there is just one red to three browns, that tells me the red is not the focus, but then I'm 72; not 22. Consequently, I use it to add warmth and dimension to the other colors and not as a color-blocking "stand alone". But, to paraphrase Mark Twain, it is a difference of opinion that makes for a horse race 🙂

    • **Hugs** Of course I'm only being flippant Eileen. I can't do red or deep pinks on my eyes but there are many, many beautiful looks featuring these colours and I think it's nice to see Chanel being a little more innovative with colour again. And as lovely as the Dior range is, Berry tones in Autumn is as groundbreaking as florals in Spring…..to paraphrase Miranda Priestly from The Devil Wears Prada. I do understand that Lucia was trying to pull the whole red collection together with the use of limited red in the quad and the d'ombre and that it is quite understated. I am being unfair because I moan at Chanel for becoming boring and then moan at them when they do something quite new and exciting just because it doesn't work for me. I hope you enjoy it. Xx

  • Anonymous

    Thank you for your honest thoughts on this collection! The only thing I am tempted by is the Rouge Radical nail polish.

  • What you describe with the lippie is *exactly* what I experienced with the color Mythic a few years ago. I LOVE nudes and was so excited to get it. It looked gorgeous in the tube and swatched beautifully, but on the lips it was impossible to make it look nice! The application was patchy, almost as if it had too much slip and combined with the nude color didn't work.

  • Are you using any eyebrow product? If so what. It looks so natural

  • I purchased the Nail Gloss in Rouge Radical as I love jellies and it did not disappoint! Love it!

  • I got the two blushes in Rosewood in evening beige and also the liner and agape the liner is beautiful it's a beautiful brown coppery color and it goes on so smoothly and lasts a long time that is one of the stand out from the collection. I also got the new foundation and had no adverse reactions to it so I love it it's amazing as well

  • I have to agree with you, I was disappointed with this collection too! I prefer the La Bouleversante red lipstick shade over the new ones, and the eye shadow quadra did not look good on me at all… I will wait for the holiday collection! I did like the Dior fall eyeshadow palettes a lot, love the textures, and the colors are very wearable!

  • I have to agree with you, I was disappointed with this collection too! I prefer the La Bouleversante red lipstick shade over the new ones, and the eye shadow quadra did not look good on me at all… I will wait for the holiday collection! I did like the Dior fall eyeshadow palettes a lot, love the textures, and the colors are very wearable!

  • J.

    I agree with you, this collection was disappointing as far as nail polish (I like the overall look), although they are both pretty polishes with great formulas. I was hoping for more from such an edgy new director, Lucia Pica. And, the "Libre Synthetic de Chanel" collection coming up next also looks lackluster.

  • Anonymous

    Sabrina, do you know if this is replacing Perfection Lumiere? I just tried to order some PL for the fall, and Nordstrom and Neimans doesn't seem to have it anymore.