All Posts By

Sabrina

Uncategorized

Chanel Vertigo #563 Le Vernis – Fall 2012

June 20, 2012

Chanel Vertigo #563 is a dark murky color that I find a bit hard to describe. In the bottle the base is a blackened-brown-grey-plum. The color is infused with that signature Chanel subtle shimmer which is visible in the bottle but not so apparent on the nail. Holding the bottle at an angle to the light shows flashes of red, plum and gold in the frost. Due to the complex nature of this shade, sometimes the bottle will look like a dusty faded plum-brown, others a rich dark plum with red shimmer, and other times a flat cool grey-brown with blue tones.
When news first surfaced that Chanel would release a nail color called “Vertigo” this fall, many of us wondered if it would be a re-promote of an older Chanel shade. Good news to long-time collectors: this season’s Vertigo is completely different. See the original Chanel Vertigo on Cafe Makeup (scroll to the bottom) and Caramel Frappe. (I still wish I could get my hands on the original!)

Coverage on Vertigo #563 is rich and smooth. Application is nearly flawless with two thin coats. This gives a high shine finish which doesn’t really a top coat (in my opinion). More close ups below.

Close up of the shimmers:

Below swatches in different lighting show this sometimes looks flat, other times looks warm, and yet other times looks cool-toned.

At first glance, I thought this looked identical to Dior’s Underground and Rescue Beauty Lounge’s Recherche. Comparing them on the nails proved they are different. Chanel has mixed up a color that I find truly unique and different, even if there are other colors that are similar in the same color family. In seeing the photos above it might have you wondering: Is Vertigo plum? Brown? Gray? Black? I hope the two sets of comparisons below help answer this question. My answer is that it’s a mix of all of the above.

First, left to right: Dior Underground (warmer and brown), Chanel Paradoxal (lighter and brighter), Chanel Vertigo, Chanel Strong and Chanel Vamp.

Second, left to right: Dior Aztec Chocolate, Dior Perfecto, Chanel Vertigo, Chanel Black Satin, Rescue Beauty Lounge Recherche

Will you be picking up Chanel Vertigo this season?

Uncategorized

Chanel Frenzy #559 Le Vernis – Fall 2012

June 19, 2012

Chanel Frenzy #559 Le Vernis ($26 US) is one of three new nail lacquers in the Chanel Fall 2012 collection. Previews had been seen earlier this year on the runway (as seen on Cafe Makeup) as being an ultra-light flesh-toned grey. Frenzy is indeed a very pale cool-toned grey with a hint of lilac. In the bottle it looks more greige with a hint of beige. On the nails for my olive skin tone, the color turns cooler and pulls a slight pale lilac. Coverage is very good with two thin coats. Application is easy. Formula has medium coverage. Definitely not sheer but also not full coverage. For me pigment was rich enough to cover entire nail (no white showing underneath).

I pulled a few comparisons for reference. When you compare Frenzy to other shades that might be similar, the color in the bottles for most of these look different. However on the nails, they look similar, there are just slight variations in undertone but it could be my olive skin. I found Chanel Frenzy to be very similar to RBL Grunge (slightly warmer and pinker) and Le Metier de Beaute Faraday (slightly more lilac with shimmer). Comparisons show this might be somewhere in between Rescue Beauty Lounge’s Grunge and Jane. (I do not yet own Jane, but see comparisons on All Lacquered Up and Cafe Makeup.) I was only able to swatch a few on the fingers, I’ve run out of nail wheels. Comparisons below show some true beige nudes like Chanel Beige and some lavendars to show that Chanel Frenzy is more of a cool-toned pale grey with a bit of lavendar, but also has slight beige tones mixed in.

Bottom line I love it. Even though it’s not quite entirely unique and doesn’t have the dazzle that Black Pearl, Graphite or Delight possess, Frenzy is elegant, polished and subdued.
Uncategorized

Dior Les Violets Hypnotiques: Orchid, Shadow and Poison

June 17, 2012

Earlier this year, Dior released a new trio collection of nail polishes called Les Violets Hypnotiques. Back in February, these plum-purple themed shades were exclusive to Europe, later rolled out to Asia, and finally have landed in the US. I believe they are currently exclusive to the Dior Boutique in Las Vegas Palazzo, however there are rumors these will be released at the Nordstrom Anniversary sale (I haven’t confirmed though). The three shades released are Orchid 981 a plum cream with tiny flecks sparkle, Shadow 783 a complex deep purple with red shimmers and Poison 996 a deep rich blackened-eggplant cream. Those who have been long-time Dior fans will see two of these shades as slightly revamped updated versions of prior limited-edition releases. (Comparisons and swatches below.) These all come with the chiseled brush in the new Dior Nail Lacquer formula. The colors are rich and beautiful, however I found ease of application to be slightly inconsistent.

Orchid is a gorgeous deep wine color. It applies as a cream but if you look closely in the bottle you will see tiny flecks of sparkle. These unfortunately are not visible on the nail. The formula goes on sheer/jelly-like making application slightly challenging. I found it difficult to achieve even coverage with 2 coats. Three thin coats gave full opaque coverage but I had to apply with a very slow and steady hand. Below, the first swatch on the left has 3 coats, all other fingers have 2 coats. I found this to be almost identical to Black Plum (released fall 2009).

Swatches below all have three coats:

Shadow is the stunner of the collection. It’s a deep plum infused with suspended red, wine, gold and purple shimmers. The formula on this color was slightly thick so I recommend applying with two thin coats. I found that using a base coat helped smooth out application. Those who remember Dior Licorice from Nordstrom’s Anniversary Sale in 2008 will notice Shadow looks familiar. To me they are almost twins, the new Shadow is slightly more purple in the base while Licorice applies more reddish. Also, Shadow looks slightly more “dusty” in finish, I believe it’s because of the base. Below shows two coats. 

Poison is my favorite in the entire collection. It applied the most flawlessly out of the three. It’s a blackened eggplant but has enough blue/purple to prevent it from looking black. It has a similar effect as some other shades such as Chanel Vendetta and Rescue Beauty Lounge Recherche. If you don’t have Poison and are wondering if it’s different enough to justify owning, I would say no. The effect is just too similar. However, I do love this one and have no regrets.

Overall gorgeous. If you missed out on prior releases, this will be the opportunity for you to pick up something similar. Even with the inconsistent formula of these three, I’m still very pleased. Other blogs I recommend checking out for more photos, swatches and comparisons include Joey’space and Fashion Polish. I also love the swatches by AudreyEleven, see them here on The Purse Forum.
These retail for $23 each. I ordered mine from the Palazzo Dior Boutique (702) 734-1102. I cannot rave enough about their excellent customer service (which stands out these days, especially given some recent less than satisfactory experiences I’ve had with a few big retailers). In addition there are a few more items available as part of this special release: a purple lipgloss, purple mascara in the Extase formula and a purple trio.
Uncategorized

Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower and En Passant

June 16, 2012
I’ve discovered a number of wonderful fragrance lines at Barneys New York in Beverly Hills. Each trip I’ve only been able to sample a few since the nose can only take so much and there is only so much arm space before the spritzes start to blend/mix altering the true scent. I’ve been eyeing Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion for some time but hesitated due to the heavy floral notes and steep price tag. I don’t consider myself a tuberose-loving kind of person, yet I’m strangely drawn to L’Artisan’s Nuit de Tubéreuse. A week ago I had on my wishlist to purchase one fragrance from Frédéric Malle: Carnal Flower, En Passant or L’eau d’Hiver. I had my sister and the sales associate help me choose. The final vote went to Carnal Flower in the 10 ml trio ($155 for the set) so I could split it with my sister. Little did I know that while I was distracted browsing the other goodies at Barneys, my sister (in stealth mode) made her way back to the counter to purchase the En Passant by Olivia Giacobetti trio for me. I didn’t realize until late in the evening after I was home that she had slipped in a little wrapped black Barneys box with a sweet note. I am truly blessed to have such a sweet and thoughtful sister. (Thank you CL!)

The perfumes by Frédéric Malle typically come in two different sizes for the bottles, 50 ml and 100 ml. Prices per fragrance have a diverse range due to ingredients (so I’m told). Carnal Flower unfortunately is one of the priciest at $230 for a 50 ml bottle. Fortunately they also carry these in trios of small 10 ml vials. I find these perfect for me since I have a finicky nose that tires easily of fragrances. Here you can see the size of the 10 ml vials. (On the nails is Chanel Pirate Le Vernis.)

Carnal Flower is strong floral primarily tuberose. There are varying descriptions online of the notes, but what I can smell includes hints of white musk, coconut, jasmine and orange blossom. I agree with Scent Hive that this is a fragrance that will either have you swooning or nauseated. I personally was not fond of the scent upon first impact but fell in love with the drydown. On my skin I found it turned slightly to give a luscious floral that is slightly creamy, most likely due to the notes of coconut and musk. The Non-Blonde described it perfectly as a luscious floral that is well balanced without being too floral. On me the scent gets better as it wears and fades, although the lasting power is excellent and doesn’t fade too much like many other scents. I think it’s a lovely scent, on the stronger side for me, but not too strong that it is overwhelming. One single spray is sufficient for me for all-day wear. I love that it has depth and is complex, but still fresh and soothing.

En Passant is one of the lighter scents by Frédéric Malle. It has been recommended to me on numerous occasions by virtually every fragrance specialist I’ve worked with at Barneys once I tell them that I adore L’Artisan’s L’Été en Douce. The price points for this one is easier to justify ($95 for the 10 ml trio, the 50 ml and 100 ml versions are also lower in price point compared to Carnal Flower). This is a green scent, less complex, more straight or linear (as described by the ladies at the Barneys counter) with blend of cucumber, lilac and wheat. It’s simple, fresh, elegant. The initial spritz feels more floral (noticeable lilac) but dries down to a more green scent that isn’t quite as floral on me. The wheat becomes apparent in the drydown and helps balance out the floral notes. The lasting power of En Passant isn’t quite as good as Carnal Flower, but still decent. There is a softness that makes this a well rounded comforting scent. I adore it.

The travel sizes are sturdy in the packaging but still rather delicate. Definitely too delicate to carry around in a makeup bag or purse. Due to the strong lasting power, I don’t really need to carry these with me in my purse to freshen up. I almost never carry fragrances with me (except for the rare occasion I have a small sample) because I worry about breakage or spilling in my purses. However, I have found that the Trish McEvoy Delicate Beauty Voyager set (reviewed here) I bought houses 2 Chanel lipsticks and 1 vial of Frédéric Malle perfectly if the double-decker card is removed.

Bottom line: I’m in love. Have you tried Frédéric Malle? What are your favorites? I’m all ears for recommendations! The sales associate kindly gave me sample cards of L’eau d’Hiver and Lipstick Rose which I’m dying to dive into.
Uncategorized

Laura Mercier Organza Nail Lacquer – Fall 2012 Cinema Noir

June 13, 2012

The first signs of fall beauty have arrived. The Non-Blonde gave us a first look at Laura Mercier’s first installment for fall 2012 with beautiful swatches of the Mystere Eye Shadow Duo. This past weekend, I spotted the display at Saks and picked up the palest item in the collection: Organza Nail Lacquer ($18), a neutral light sheer beige with a tinge of light pink loaded with tiny gold and silver sparkles. It’s sheer and different from anything I own. It’s reminiscent of OPI’s classic Hollywood Blonde, but a golden version with a slightly more pigmented nude base. I applied this with two coats although I three might be better. Still, two coats resulted in an glowy and sparkly look.

Close up at an angle so you can see the beige base and gold sparkles suspended, if you turn this in the sun you see multi-colored shimmers in some champagne and silvery sparkles:

In terms of comparisons, Laura Mercier’s Organza might remind you of other shades such as Essies Chips No Potatoes (which looked horribly yellow on me) or other Chanel Beige-Golds such as Beige Rose or Beige d’Or. It does indeed have a similar feel, but the base has a slight pinkish mix to help this from looking yellow on olive skintones (like mine). Here are a few comparisons:

I found mine at Saks and this should be arriving at counters now. I’m not sure whether it’s limited edition or not, these days I tend to assume most items are these days. Bottom line, gorgeous, subtle and glowy. I’ve worn this for three days now with no chips or tip wear yet. Laura Mercier’s Organza is perfectly polished without being too distracting or glitzy.
The other two shades released were a warm mink-pink cream and a warm light cocoa. I thought they were too close to my skintone to be flattering for me, but curiosity will definitely lead me to another trip soon to test those on the fingers.
Uncategorized

Gloss d’Armani – New Pink Shades for Summer 2012

June 11, 2012

This summer Giorgio Armani has a few mini-releases in addition to their main Écailles Summer Collection. The first to be released in the US is six new shades of Gloss d’Armani ($28 each for 6.5 ml/0.22 fl oz) and six new Rouge d’Armani Sheers ($30 each). I spotted the collection this past weekend at Saks Beverly Hills and picked up one of each of the lipglosses.

The six shades are all labeled to be in the Pink family, although some of them are more beige/peach/rose. The collection includes Pink 513, 514, 515, 516, 517 and 518. I asked the artist if these were indeed new shades or if any were re-promotes. I noticed one looked like the original Lipshimmer #1 and another like the Lipshimmer #16. She pointed out that while these were new in the Gloss d’Armani range, they were indeed older Lipshimmers reformulated in the new Gloss d’Armani formula and packaging. (Much like what Armani did when they reformulated all their eyeshadows into the Maestro formula back in 2009, see those features here and here.)

At Saks, I was told that this particular collection of glosses was a less thick version of the first wave of Gloss d’Armanis (see the original review here from 2010). Those who have any of the shades released know they apply sheer and lightweight but thicken slightly after they set which makes them last slightly longer than the original Lipshimmers by Armani. Some promotional features have called this particular release the “Porcelain Doll” collection since these shades are meant to mimic a high shine of porcelain doll lips. After playing around with a few of the shades, I personally can’t see the difference. They appear to have the same feel/texture as all prior Gloss d’Armani shades: natural color, semi-sheer finish, gorgeous glowy shimmer (not frost), and high shine. The scent is slightly fragranced (very very slight) to have a clean fresh scent. I never really noticed a scent in the first wave that have been released, but upon further inspection found they have a slight chemical/plastic scent if you smell them closely. The newer ones are an improvement in my opinion.

The new shades are gorgeous, but if you have a number of glosses from Armani, you may want to check your stash first. Many of the existing Gloss d’Armani shades are similar, not quite dupes, but close. I’ll try to add a few thoughts on each of the new shades and how they compare to existing colors. I’ll also list what I believe to be the original Lipshimmer numbers.

Photographed above, L to R in consecutive order (for reference I swatched all my older lipshimmers back in 2010 here, most of these I’ve used up and no longer have so I didn’t compare them side-by-side):
  • Pink 513 is a beige shimmer. The shimmer is higher in this one with a frostier shine but not overly so. This is a lighter more champagne version of Beige 102. This replaced Lipshimmer #16.
  • Pink 514 is a soft opal pink that flashes pearly-pink. It’s a glowy soft sheer pink that’s more opal/pale than Beige 103 (which also has more peach). This replaced Lipshimmer #25.
  • Pink 515 is a pale pink that flashes blue, green and white sparkles. This replaced Midnight Lipshimmer #1.
  • Pink 516 is a soft light peach with tiny silver sparkles. This is a peachier version of Pink 501. It replaced Lipshimmer #1.
  • Pink 517 is a soft neutral-cool rose with cool shimmer. It’s a lighter version of Pink 503. It replaced Lipshimmer #9.
  • Pink 518 is a non-shimmer neutral rose brown pink. It’s warmer and slightly deeper than Pink 507. This replaced Lipshimmer #21.

Swatches, two views. I think the top shows the undertones best, while the bottom shows the hint of iridescence for each shade with the high flash.

Overall I do think the Gloss d’Armani formula is a huge improvement over the original Lipshimmer formula in terms of lasting power. The thickening factor of these glosses does help prevent them from slipping off the lips easily, but still like any typical gloss, lasting powder is limited. I usually wear Armani glosses with some kind of liner or over a lipstick since they are rather sheer. These are a nice swipe-and-go kind of gloss but I think most will prefer more color or pigment. They are great for layering.
Those who had a favorite Lipshimmer shade will be happy to learn that Armani is bringing some of them back in the new formula. I think Lipshimmer #1 and 16 were classics. I’m glad to be able to replenish those. I highly recommend checking these out at your local Armani counter. The colors are easy to wear and great for everyday or for creating a polished look.
Have you checked out the new Gloss d’Armani or Rouge d’Armani Sheer colors? Thoughts?
Uncategorized

Le Métier de Beauté Indian Summer Lip Crème Lip Gloss Duo

June 8, 2012

Le Métier de Beauté has released another Haute House Hues Lip Crème Lip Gloss Duo called Indian Summer ($65 for 0.44 fl oz/13 ml). The two new shades are called Ginger Snap, a sheer sparkly warm pink and Copper Leaf, a warm metallic coppery orange bronze.

Both are labeled as the Lip Crème formula, but it Ginger Snap is more glossy and sheer than the typical Le Métier Lip Crème. It goes on fairly sheer on the lips giving a tint of sparkly pink. It’s quite stunning in the tube and naturally pretty on the lips. I think this shade works for me alone, but I think most will find it sheer and prefer it over lipsticks.

Copper Leaf is highly pigmented with a lightweight mousse-like creme feel. It’s on the orangey-side of copper but not overly so. I think this would look lovely on darker skinned girls. I like it but think it would be more flattering if I had a tan. This shade did bleed a little while wearing this. I recommend using a lip liner with a non-glossy texture to help matte-out the lip area.

Mix master Messy Wands has swatched them mixed on her gorgeous lips today. The Ultimate Makeup also has large swatches to view and so does Best Things in Beauty.

Here are the Lip Crèmes swatched, Ginger Snap, Copper Leaf, then mixed together (Copper Leaf dominates even when mixed in equal parts)

Comparisons to other Le Métier de Beauté lipglosses:

Swatched comparisons to other Le Métier de Beauté lipglosses: Nadine is more pink/red (not photographed above but swatched below), Ibiza is lighter and more pink, Toffee Creme is more neutral/brownish, Summerland has loads more sparkles and more pink/sand.

I like them mixed best but my love for Le Métier de Beauté lip crèmes and glosses still burns strong. Both are fairly unique for the colors I own. I don’t think you’ll find dupes in the Le Metier line (which is nice). For reference, the spring pinks lip creme duo was reviewed last month here.
There are two additional items in the collection, two orangey nail lacquers. I decided to pass for now, but I’m looking forward to upcoming Le Métier de Beauté releases (more kaleidoscope kits soon please!). I found my lip crème set in-store at Neiman Marcus. It should be available at all Neiman Marcus Le Metier locations.