Yearly Archives

2011

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Tom Ford Lip Color: Indian Rose 04

September 25, 2011
Tom Ford’s Indian Rose is a natural pinky rose with a slight shimmer. The color is darker than Pink Dusk, but still very natural in color. It has a beautiful full coverage and doesn’t darken or turn brownish like some neutral pink roses can. It leans slightly towards a cooler pink but I find it to be mostly neutral. The color is beautiful with rich full coverage. The shimmer in Indian Rose doesn’t show up on my lips but helps give it depth to prevent it from looking flat.

Below are a few comparisons to Bobbi Brown Heather Pink (which is more brown/plum), Burberry English Rose (which is lighter and more mauve), and Edward Bess Forever Yours (which is a darker plum).

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Tom Ford Lip Color: Spanish Pink 01

September 25, 2011

Tom Ford’s Spanish Pink 01 Lip Color is a richly pigmented light peachy-pink with a very slight hint of sparkle. On my lips it pulls more peachy than pink and the shimmer is not detectable. The lipstick goes on very smoothly blending naturally with your lips with full coverage. There is a soft delicious vanilla scent. Initially I was worried it would be too pale but this one has enough color to not wash me out. (For skintone reference, right now I’m Chanel Beige 30 in Vitalumiere Aqua and testing out the new Beige 30 Perfection Lumiere and Dolce & Gabbana’s Creamy Foundation in #144 Bronze.) Spanish Pink was previously featured and swatched with a number of other shades from Tom Ford earlier this month here (shown next to Pink Dusk, Sable Smoke, Nude Vanille etc.). Below are a few more close-ups and swatches.

Per request, here are a few comparisons. Tom Ford’s Spanish Pink is a peachy-pink hybrid. Burberry’s Delicate Rose is a pink version. Burberry Cameo is very similar but lighter, sheerer with slightly less pink. Chanel Chintz is the most coral in undertone.

Overall I love this color. It’s light, brightening, easy to wear and versatile. Lasting power of Tom Ford Lipsticks is a bit better than the average lipstick in my experience. The pigment is amazing, texture is to die for, and the scent is absolutely delicious. Are these really worth $48? This is a tough one. I’m inclined to say no lipstick is worth more than $30 even though many have reached the $32 level, prices are still increasing and I’ve been sucked into the hype. The formula of the Tom Ford is amazing and the lipsticks almost melt into the lip so I feel the purchase was worthwhile, but I’m still grumbling at the cost.

*Update* Also check it out on Tali at The Gloss Goss (so happy she’s back!!).

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Eyelash Curlers: Trish McEvoy, Chanel and Le Métier de Beauté

September 24, 2011

The first eyelash curler I ever tried was from Revlon back when I was in high school and unfortunately it didn’t do much for my straight lashes. I was scared that I would accidentally pull out all my lashes so I didn’t try using one again until my college days when I had a Trish McEvoy makeup lesson at Saks. My first high-end eyelash curler purchase was was from Trish McEvoy and I’ve loved it ever since. I’ve since tried curlers from Armani, Chanel, Le Métier de Beauté, Shiseido and Shu Uemura (original and the individual). I would say all are good, but my top three favorites include Trish McEvoy, Chanel and Le Métier de Beauté.

What I look for in an eyelash curler: I focus on the curve (how it fits my eye) and the density of the pads (I prefer something on the softer side but not too soft). I’m Asian without a crease in my lids. There is a curve to my lids but my eyes are not deepset. My lashes are very straight which makes them appear shorter than they are. I found Armani’s pad too stiff (making it difficult to get a good curl), Shiseido’s shape didn’t work with my eyeshape and pinched in the corners, Shu Uemura’s was good, I have no complaints yet I think there are better options. The individual eyelash curler was good in concept but impossible for me to hold in my fingers.

It can be a challenge to see how these all compare unless you find a retailer that carries all the brands. Right now, there are various Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom stores that should carry most of the above brands. For the three that I do love, here’s the breakdown and photos first, then detailed thoughts below:
  • Trish McEvoy wins for all around function, price and design (for me)
  • Le Métier de Beauté wins for having the most lightweight easy to use design with the softest pad
  • Chanel wins for aesthetics and has the thickest pad

Trish McEvoy’s Eyelash Curler ($18) is a silver colored curler that comes with 1 replaceable pad and is made in Japan. If this came with refills available for purchase separately this would be holy grail material. The Trish Curler has the best feel in my hands. I have small fingers and while most eyelash curlers are virtually identical in shape and size, I sometimes find it difficult to hold some because of the angles or size of the handles. The pad has a medium density which I find ideal for getting a consistently even curl on both eyes by applying slight pressure. The pads last quite a long time and clean easily. I’ve repurchased numerous times. I find the Trish method of application to be helpful (although it might seem like common sense to most): “Position the Eyelash Curler as close to the base of the lashes as possible. Gently squeeze for 10 seconds, then ‘walk’ the curler out along the length of the lashes, squeezing as you go.” I typically only squeeze for 4 seconds before releasing and moving the curler. I find curling the lashes in 3 sections helps get an even natural curl.
Chanel’s Eyelash Curler ($34) is one of the newest on the market for the US. It was released in Asia a year ago, is made in Japan, and comes with 2 replacement pads. The Chanel curler comes in all black and out of all the curlers I’ve seen, the Chanel has the sleekest most sophisticated look. It has a very similar feel to the Trish McEvoy with an almost identical curve. The Chanel pad is thicker and stiffer but not too stiff. The curler gives a very good curl. For me, there is just one problem. Having black lashes with a black eyelash curler makes it very difficult to see exactly what I’m curling. The dark color of my lashes blends with the curler no matter what lighting I use. This requires a magnified mirror for me to see what I’m curling. This isn’t too big of a problem though – if I start at the base of my lashes, I can see where to place the first curl and then work my way to the tips in three evenly spaced squeezes. Still I wouldn’t use this if I were in a rush, the Trish and Le Métier work just as well and I don’t have to look super closely to know what I’m curling.

Le Métier de Beauté’s Eyelash Curler ($18) is finally available for sale at Neiman Marcus stores. For a while it was only available as a gift with purchase at various locations. This curler has the most curve out of all three that I’m reviewing in this post. It also has the softest most cushy pad I’ve ever tried. This was something I was not used to when I first tried it. Being softer I found that my first attempts gave me an uneven curl on both eyes as I was not able to apply consistent pressure. I was able to achieve a nice curl easier than ones with stiffer pads, but the result was uneven. After a bit of practice I was able to get used to the softer pad and have fallen in love since. A softer pad means that this curler doesn’t last quite as long. I believe a replacement pad is included.

My general eyelash curler thoughts: I’ve been told that one needs to replace pads every 3-4 months and the actual curler every 9 months. I find the pads do wear down but am not always good about replacing consistently. I do clean after every 2-3 uses with makeup remover. For the actual curler, I’m equally bad about replacing. I’ve been told that the alignment of the hinges goes out after use which is why replacement pads are not sold for a number of brands. I always thought this seemed like a marketing scheme, but have noticed that replacing the curlers about once a year does make a difference when you compare a used one to a brand new one.

For more resources, tips and insights, I recommend these:

  • The Non-Blonde’s review on Le Métier de Beauté’s Eyelash Curler
  • Café Makeup’s beautiful review and comparisons on Chanel and Le Metier (these are a must-read!)
  • Thoughts on replacement frequency, cleaning tips, brand comparisons see the Q&A at Sephora.com

What’s your favorite eyelash curler?

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Burberry Sheer Eye Shadows: Pearl White, Pearl Grey & Lavender

September 22, 2011

I stopped by the Burberry counter at Nordstrom San Francisco last month and was helped by the most wonderful, artistic & knowledgeable staff. After chatting a few minutes about my past experiences with Burberry, the artist quickly urged me to try something new and non-neutral. He mentioned most women gravitate towards the safe colors of Trench, Gold Trench, Rosewood and Taupe Brown. His observation was that while these colors are good, he felt there were better colors in the Burberry Beauty Range to take a woman’s looks from good to great. I eagerly listened. As I swiped my finger in Pearl Grey No. 17 to see how the color blended on my hand, he picked up Pearl White and Lavender to show me how I could mix and match these two shades with my existing products by blending and layering on the back of his hand. The three new shades I ended up with included: Pearl White No. 01, Pearl Grey No. 17 and Lavender No. 14 (all $29 for 2.5 g/ 0.088 oz).

Pearl White No. 01 is a pure pearly white. It has scared me every other time I’ve been to the Burberry counter so I never gave it a chance or even a swipe. I thought it would be too pale, too chalky and just not me. However, Vaugh, the artist at Burberry, showed me on his hand how Pearl White is not like most other white shadows. Its finely milled texture and beautiful pearly quality gives a beautiful sheen to the skin. It looks amazing when combined with Rosewood on the eyes either as a soft blending shade, a highlighter on the brow, or for a subtle highlight to the inner corners of the eyes. I particularly enjoyed The Non-Blonde’s lovely review and Café Makeup wrote about this shade in a recent Burberry Makeover which will give you ideas on how to coordinate this color. Although Trench is still my favorite nude shade for a base and Porcelain is my favorite for an all over neutral wash, Pearl White is going to become a staple in my stash.

Pearl Grey No. 17 is something I’ve had my eye on for quite some time but never pulled the trigger to purchase. Most medium grey shimmers can look ashy on my olive skin. Most of us first saw Pearl Grey featured on Lisa Eldridge’s Burberry Beauty Review Video (eyeshadow application starts around 4:12), however given her amazing makeup skills, beautiful features and fair skintone, I wasn’t sure this color would be as pretty on me. This color is a fairly sheer grey shimmer with a loose fluffy brush. I found the best application and finish for me was to pack it on with a dense MAC 242 brush directly over a cream base (like Laura Mercier’s Satinée Crème Eye Colour or Metallic Crème Eye Colour). It layers well over Rosewood, but if you layer it on top of too much powder, the color loses its luster and quickly looks dull. Once the color is on the eye, I think it best to not touch or blend too much or else the color/sparkle disappears quickly. It’s fairly cool which is hard for me to pull off easily for everyday, although it makes a lovely going out/evening color.

Lavender No. 14 swatched so beautifully on the back of the hand. Unfortunately, the application to the eyes did not translate quite as well. On the fingers and hands you see a gorgeous blue-purple with a slight lavender periwinkle sheen. It’s quite lovely. When applied with a brush, the shimmer disappears and the color looks a bit flat. I tried this numerous ways with different brushes and bases and have resorted to just applying as a liner with a damp brush. Yes, I can create a smokey eye by layering this with a slightly damp smudge brush, but for deeper vibrant colors like this, I want something with high impact and pigment that is easy to blend (similar to what Midnight Brown is). With a bit of work, this color looks amazing, but I find it too high maintenance to love it. I know that Burberry shades are meant to have a subtle glow and finish but I was still slightly disappointed with this color. If you’ve had better luck with the application please share!

Here are all three swatched, two variations of lighting (I wish that Lavender would look as good on the eye the same way it swatches on the arm or hands):

I pulled a few other shades from Burberry (Trench and Rosewood), Le Metier (Thunder) and Armani (Maestro 21) to compare. I didn’t really try to look for dupes, but just similar shades.

Overall I’m still very impressed with the quality of Burberry Eyeshadows. To date there are only 2 that I’ve tried that I did not love (Midnight Black and Lavender).
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A Few Dior Mitzah Quint Comparisons

September 20, 2011

Although Dior’s Mitzah Quint is quite basic and very neutral, I had a hard time finding another palette similar. I pulled a few with similar tones but none are dupes. Above shows Dior Endless Shine, Chanel Kaska Beige and Dolce & Gabbana Nude. Unfortunately I did not get swatches of all the palettes today before the sun went down and my camera battery died. I do have Endless Shine swatched to compare for you in decent lighting so you can see the difference in shimmer/finish. Most Dior Quints have at least one high frost color, Iridescent Quints have the majority of the shades frosted. As you can see below Mitzah is satiny and almost matte.

Here is Mitzah at night swatched next to a few other palettes, Chanel Kaska Beige, Dolce & Gabbana Nude and Chanel Variations.

Some might say Mitzah is too basic and lacks luster. It doesn’t make the eyes pop or have that intense wow-factor, but it has a kick that gives a beautiful subtle defined eye that can be intensified for a soft-smoky look. I personally love it for everyday. For a bit of an extra shimmer or kick, I’d recommend layering over a more sparkly cream base to add a bit of luster.
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Dior Mitzah Camel and Ebony Comparisons

September 19, 2011
Dior Camel and Ebony are compared below to Dior City of Gold, Dior Sienna, Chanel Khaki Rose, Chanel Particuliere, Dior Underground, Dolce & Gabbana Chocolate and MAC Dim the Lights.
To see how Camel compares to neutral nudes, like Dior Nude Chic and Dolce & Gabbana Nude, scroll down two posts (linked here).
I found Dior Camel truly unique. There wasn’t a shade I owned similar to it at all. Granted I don’t typically gravitate towards yellow-based shades unless it’s a gold shimmer. Dior Ebony wasn’t exactly unique as I found it very similar to Underground. The two are practically identical except when you scroll down to the bottom photo, you might be able to see that Underground has a slightly purplish base while Ebony is more neutral black/brown. In real life you can only see the difference if you look very closely. In the photos I doubt you will be able to tell the two apart unless you tilt your head, squint and try to look for the difference.

I hope these comparisons help. I’m not sure I would classify these new Dior shades as must-haves as they are fairly neutral and not exactly knock out colors. Still they provide a polished subtle elegant look to the fingers which I really like. Quint/quad comparisons to come soon. I didn’t get good swatch comparisons from this weekend so I will have to redo them.
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Dior Mitzah Picks: Camel & Ebony Dior Vernis and Mitzah Quint

September 19, 2011

I’ve been eagerly waiting for the release of the Mitzah Collection to Sephora in the US. The collection was designed to commemorate Mitzah Bricard, Christian Dior’s legendary muse who was known for her love of leopard. The Mitzah Collection features pieces for eyes, face and nails in shades of camel, chocolate brown and beige in a jungle-print theme. While traveling in Paris last March, Café Makeup was lucky to find the collection early and shared beautiful photos of the palette and nail polishes. The collection has finally arrived in the US exclusively at Sephora and Sephora.com.
My picks included the new eyeshadow quint Mitzah #753, Camel Nail Polish #622, Ebony Nail Polish #912 and the new Golden Brown DiorShow Mascara #598 (not featured). All are currently exclusive to Sephora and are limited edition.

The Mitzah 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette ($60 for 6 g / 0.21 oz) palette is a collection of neutrals with a slight kick. The four outer shades have an embossed animal print in the powder and have a very subtle finely milled shimmer. The shimmer is so slight the colors glow with a slight sheen. The colors in the palette include a dark aubergine-brown, a medium caramel brown, a soft camel with a light orangey tinge, a warm beige and a soft greyed-brown.

After seeing this swatched and reviewed on Beauty Moogle Zone, Café Makeup, Iron Spy I was worried it would be too warm for my olive skin. Still I could not resist the lovely descriptions of the satiny finish and when I tested the palette at Sephora I fell in love. The colors are very soft and refined. I find them a bit different from the traditional Dior palettes which typically have at least 1 high frost shade. This palette has a very subtle sheen in all shades and a very natural finish. If you’re looking for high impact or high shimmer, you might be disappointed with this one but I love it.

It’s usually difficult for me to use all 5 shades in Dior quints, however the Mitzah Quint has a wonderful layering quality and today I put all 5 shades on my eyes. I apologize I do not have photos to share, but for my application method, I started with MAC’s Cream Color Base in Seaside, applied the pale cream all over the lid, then followed with the bronzey top right about 1/2 way up the lid brushing the color back and forth into a soft gradient from the lashline upwards. I then took the bottom right greyish brown and smudged it right along the upper lashlines heavily. Next I took the upper left aubergine and applied it from outer corners about 1/4 way into the eye. Last step was to take the middle orange shade and lightly dip a soft fluffy brush and blend the two dark shades just to soften the edges.

Camel and Ebony Nail Polishes ($22 each for 10 ml / 0.33 fl oz) are both opaque creams. I love this photo from Dior’s International Website. They apply beautifully with 2 coats and have a gorgeous glossy sheen on the nails.

Camel is a yellowed beige and Ebony is a deep cool brown. Both are pure love. I thought Camel might be too yellow but oddly once applied on the skin it just works. Might not be everyone’s cup of tea. This is one you have to see and test in person to really tell. I don’t think it photographs well on the fingers but in person I find it more flattering.

Ebony is a dark beautiful brown cream. It’s very similar to Underground which was released earlier this year. If you have Underground (slightly more purple undertone), you can safely skip Ebony (comparisons to come soon). These shades apply beautifully with 2 coats. The tapered brush makes application easier for those of use who have unsteady hands.

I highly recommend you check out additional swatches and reviews at Joey’space, Fashion Polish, and Café Makeup if you haven’t already. They have lovely comparisons and swatches.

Overall love. Bravo Dior! They did an excellent job creating a beautiful collections of neutrals with a kick. If you’re at all interested I recommend purchasing soon since all pieces are limited edition and exclusive to Sephora in the US. If you’re unsure about the quint because your coloring doesn’t do so well with warm shades, just use the middle shade with a very light hand. The other colors are very easy to wear and even on my warm skin worked just fine. At this time I won’t be reviewing the mascara I purchased. I have several tubes of other brands I have to use up. By the time I get around to opening up this one to test I’m afraid it will be sold out. At Sephora, the mascara tester looked like a dark brassy brown shimmer which I found intriguing.

I’ll be posting comparisons very soon in a separate post. Did you check out the Mitzah Collection at Sephora or elsewhere? What were your thoughts?