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The Beauty Look Book Essentials | Eye Basics

February 16, 2014

This is Part 2 of my Essentials Series. Today I’m sharing my favorite eye basics tools and products such as bases, mascaras and brow products. Details listed below for each product, followed by some swatches and extra photos below.

An overview on what I’ve looked for in each category:
  • Bases – I have normal to dry lids so I tend to look for products that are a tiny bit moist and dry down slowly so I can layer shadows without having to rush. At the same time I want something that will also dry to a finish that is longer-lasting and something that will stay put throughout the entire day. For color I know many like to match the skin color exactly to even out the lids. I prefer something with a bit of shimmer or a few shades darker otherwise the lids end up looking very flat and washed out.
  • Pencils/liners – I have found many basic browns or blacks are not dark enough or don’t have the right texture. Many look great for a few hours then slide off or fade. Finding the perfect combination of color, texture and lasting power has been a challenge. Sometimes layering a powder shadow over a liner can help extend the wear-life of eye makeup. I usually prefer bronze or navy colors instead of your basic brown or black.
  • Mascaras – I have very straight lashes so without a mascara to lengthen, hold curl or volumize, I end up with raccoon eyes or look like I don’t have lashes at all. Some long-wear mascaras end up feeling crunchy (if that makes sense) as they stiffen, I prefer something that has a bit more of a glossy looking finish but one that will stay put. Color is also key, I look for mascaras that look like they are a true black. Some dry down to a lighter color than what you see when it’s moist.
  • Brows – I am still searching for my perfect brow pencil. I found one with NARS in Panama but they discontinued it and came out with a new formula and colors.
My tried and true list of products I’ve found over the years. While this is quite an extensive list, note that these were accumulated over time. There is always debate over shelf life of products, I usually keep items until they dry out, start to smell funny or just don’t perform the same. Some liners/bases have lasted over 2 years – I think as long as you use clean brushes and occasionally wipe down the surface with a paper towel or cotton pad you should be ok. The only eye items I throw out regularly are mascaras at the 3 month mark.
  1. Chanel Eyelash Curler ($34, limited-edition) is a classic black eyelash curler. It was released a few years ago at all counters but you can only find it now at select places like Chanel.com. Detailed review with photos here. It works for my eyelid shape so it doesn’t pinch around the edges and curls perfectly. Since it’s black and I have black lashes, it can be hard to see what I’m curling unless I have good light, but the results are good.
  2. Le Metier de Beaute Eyelash Curler ($18) is a favorite at a relatively inexpensive price for a high-end curler. The pad has a bit more cushion to it but is gentle. This curls my lashes well and fits the eye shape perfectly.
  3. MAC Paint Pot in Groundwork ($20) is a classic cream tan brown color. I like it as a base for 1/2 way up the lid or as a soft contouring shade. It’s darker than my natural skin tone but blends well and stays put. It helps add definition in a subtle way.
  4. RMS Cream Eyeshadow Solar ($28) might sound odd as an eye basic but the gold shimmer makes for a perfect swipe-and-go kind of color. It’s all I need on lazy days and also works well as a base. The shimmery gold color helps brighten powder shadows and also intensifies colors when applied over the cream.
  5. Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Liner in Bronze Shimmer was a classic for years and then Bobbi Brown discontinued it. You may still be able to find this at various outlets (I have and stocked up). The closest color from Bobbi Brown is Chocolate Shimmer Ink (which is still darker and redder). Urban Decay has close matches as well but the lasting power doesn’t match.
  6. Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Liner in Caviar Ink ($24) is a dark black but not quite a true black. There’s a hint of brown in this so it’s not too harsh. It’s my perfect black liner.
  7. Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow in Nude Beach ($25) is another discontinued favorite. It was limited a few summers ago and is my holy-grail nude eyebase with shimmer. I wish it were permanent but the good news is Shore is a close match (just doesn’t have the shimmer).
  8. Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow in Shore ($25) is a good matte nude. It’s an amazing base that covers the lids and helps shadows adhere better. Depending on your skintone you may need something darker – Bobbi Brown has a wide range of neutrals to choose from. Shore is the one that matches my skin the best.
  9. Edward Bess Defining Eyeliner in Deep Brown ($29) is the best basic brown liner I’ve tried. It has a smooth texture so it glides on easy but it lasts all day after it sets.
  10. Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof in Noir Intense ($32) is the blackest black I’ve found that stays put. It’s darker than Ebene (Chanel’s classic black). I like that it’s a twist-up kind of pencil. The end pops off so you can sharpen the tip.
  11. NARS Larger than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner ($24 each) in Via Appia (bronze) and Rue Saint-Honore (navy) are amazing eye pencils. These are twist up pencils as well with a removeable cap at the end to sharpen the tips. These are rich in color and easy to blend (if you blend quickly after application). Once they set, they don’t budge.
  12. Le Metier de Beaute Dualistic Eye Pencil in Champagne ($36) is the classic taupe pencil that you can use as a shadow base. If you’ve had a makeover from any of the artists from Le Metier de Beaute, they will almost always use this – it’s universally flattering and works wonders to add a bit of color to the eyes.
  13. Edward Bess Illuminating Eye Base in Suede ($30) is my holy grail eye base. There’s nothing else that will help my shadows last as long as this base does. See my review and swatches here.
  14. NARS Volumizing Mascara ($25) is one of my favorite volumizing mascaras. It really does what it claims to do. It volumizes and thickens the lashes. I love that it doesn’t budge or smudge. It’s a rich black color which I love.
  15. Armani Eyes to Kill Mascara – Stretch ($32) is another favorite, if I were pressed to pick one favorite, this would be it. It’s my does-everything mascara. Lengthens, thickens, defines, stays put, darkens and volumizes the lashes like no other mascara. There are several other variations of Eyes to Kill Mascaras. I’ve tried them all and they are all very good. This one grabs my thin lashes better and defines the best out of all of them. Artists I work with from Armani all have their different favorites.
  16. By Terry Eyebrow Mascara in Dark Brown ($38) is something new I’ve discovered. (I’ll have a more detailed review later.) I have the worst brows ever. Everytime I have a makeover or work with an artist, they always ask me “what do you do to fix your brows?” My answer is usually nothing because there’s usually very little I can do to “fix” them. Most pencils are too warm or too dark in color. The By Terry Brow Mascara in Dark Brown is the best brow product I’ve discovered. It helps define the brows and keeps them groomed. It dries to a natural feel (not a crunchy finish like many do). With this one I suddenly have defines brows that don’t look so bad anymore.
  17. Bobbi Brown Tweezers ($30) grip the brows and tiny stubborn hairs. I’ve tried Tweezerman and Anastasia before – both of which are good, but nothing compared to Bobbi Brown. There is something about the design of the tips that helps grip hairs better. I like the classic silver design. It comes with a rubber tip to cap it so you can store it in your purse or makeupbag.
  18. Shu Uemura Slant Tweezers were my favorite of all tweezers. I’m very sad they discontinued this in the US. I keep checking Shu Uemura’s website to see if it pops up again. No luck so far. Bobbi Brown is my close second for now.
  19. Leftover mascara wands are what I use to groom and brush brows or lashes. After my mascara is used up, I wash the brushes with warm water and soap and then they make their way into my brush containers to be recycled and reused. 
Eye Basics / Color Swatches

Eye Basics / Tools

I hope this comprehensive post gives you a list of ideas on what to try. We all have unique eye shapes, skin tones and skin types, so what works for you will depend on a number of factors. I hope the descriptions and details above will either help narrow down what to look for. If you can schedule a sit-down session with your counters, I recommend it. Artists have a wealth of knowledge – sometimes scheduling in advance can help them make sure they have extra staff on hand.
If I were to pick only 5 items for eye basics, they would be:
1) Le Metier de Beaute Eyelash Curler
2) Armani Eyes to Kill Mascara – Stretch
3) Edward Bess Illuminating Eye Base in Suede
4) NARS Larger than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Appia and
5) Shu Uemura Slant Tweezers
What are your holy-grail tools and eye basics?
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Latest from Edward Bess

February 15, 2014

There are four things I wanted to share from our beloved Edward Bess. It’s been a while since I’ve reviewed anything new from Edward’s line but his products continue to be holy-grail staples in my weekly makeup routine. Many of his items will be making an appearance in my Essentials Series so stay tuned. Today I have some news from Edward.

1 / First, he just launched a new product last night on QVC called Extreme Cover Cream with Expert Retouch Brush in four shades. In case you missed the segment you can watch it online at QVC.com. This is currently a QVC exclusive but will be released at all Edward Bess locations later this year.

http://www.qvc.com/Edward-Bess-Extreme-Cover-Cream-with-Expert-Retouch-Brush-Search-Results.product.A251536.html?sc=A251536-SRCH&cm_sp=VIEWPOSITION-_-2-_-A251536&catentryImage=http://images-p.qvc.com/is/image/a/36/a251536.001?$uslarge$

2 / Second, his Black Sea Mousse Foundation is back in stock in QVC (see my review from a year ago here, also check out Café Makeup’s review here). It’s a truly amazing foundation.

3 / If you haven’t checked out Edward Bess’s website www.edwardbess.com you may want to revisit. It’s gone through a revamp for a sleeker look and easy navigation. There’s a locator section so you can see which stores carry his products along with a tips section.

4 / I have news from Edward that his line will be leaving Sephora and Sephora.com starting March 1st. I know many will be sad to see his line go, however rest assured you will still be able to find his products in other stores such as Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman (full retail list online here). There are still some products available online at Sephora.com. Below are more details from Edward.

Those who have tried items from Edward Bess know and love his line to an extreme. He knows how to make women look and feel their best with classics that work. If you have the chance to meet him in person you will be in for a special treat – I’ve had him apply my makeup a couple times before at Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills and each time was a wonderful experience. He plans to be in LA this upcoming week – I recommend you call the counter (310) 550-5900 to see what times he will be in store to see if you can meet him in person.

For more of the latest and greatest from Edward Bess, Bessties can follow him on Twitter @edwardbess, Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram @edwardbess.

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Burberry Rose Pink No. 10 Complete Eye Palette

February 14, 2014

The latest from Burberry is the English Rose Collection. The collection has been arriving in pieces here and there. There are two new quads, new nail polishes and some lip colors that are repromoted. There are two new quads in Rose Pink No. 10 and Sage Green No. 15 ($59 each for 5.4g, made in Italy). I ordered the pink version from Burberry which sold out almost immediately online. While at the Burberry counter at Nordstrom San Francisco, the artists showed me the testers of the collection and said they expected to receive the items very soon. Right now Saks.com has both quads online.

Rose Pink No. 10 is a lovely palette of pinks – it is very light and pale. The shades include a pale frosted ivory, a light frosted pink, a soft shimmering mauve-grey and a matte dusty earthy clay kind of pink. On my skin both the lighter shades look identical. To avoid an overly pale eye, I started applying the taupe-mauve shade first, layered the salmon pink and then blended the two pale shimmers on top. The result was a very light eye. It had a delicate look. With a significant amount of blending I was able to get the palette to work with a simple dark brown eyeliner and mascara. I felt this palette needed a darker shade to make this work better for me. For more definition I added a bit of Midnight Brown eyeshadow.

The quality and texture of this palette is very good. Some have felt the other quads were different in quality than the single shades reporting they were powdery with fallout. I personally found all the other quads to be of very high quality, I didn’t see too much of a difference in quality – the quads in general seemed to have more satiny shades which had a slightly different texture. The Rose Pink quad seems to mimic the texture and quality more of the singles.

For those new to Burberry eyeshadow quads – these palettes come in a sturdy mirrored compact with a magnetic closure. Each palette comes in a soft black pouch with tiny brushes which I find too small to use except for quick touch-ups. Some more photos of Rose Pink below.

In sunlight:

Artificial bulbs highlight the shimmer and frost:

Swatches (slightly blotchy because I had remnants of moisturizer on parts of my arm but it shows how you can control pigment depending on how moist your eye base is):

Here are some comparison swatches to a couple other Burberry Eyeshadow Quads in Pale Nude No. 3 and Pink Taupe No. 7:

Comparisons to Burberry Rosewood, Antique Rose, Pale Rose and Midnight Brown:

I’m overall pleased with the quality of Rose Pink No. 10. Color-wise I do feel it needs one or two more darker shades blended in to work for me. Right now Burberry Beauty is available in the US at select Burberry stores, a few Nordstrom counters and select Saks stores. It can be a bit difficult to find and with the recent changes some items have been on back-order and hard to find. You may have to do a bit of shopping around if you want to purchase different colors.

The list of Nordstrom locations carrying Burberry Beauty can be found here (if you have updates please share below in the comments). For your reference I’ve linked the places you can find the items I swatched:

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Tom Ford Spring Nail Polish Comparisons to Chanel, MAC, Marc Jacobs, NARS, YSL and Laura Mercier

February 13, 2014

Sugar Dune is more pinkish compared to other nude pinks like Chanel Jade Rose, Tom Ford Toasted Sugar and Tom Ford Show Me The Pink.

Coral Beach is more of a straight peach compared to Chanel Distraction, Laura Mercier Cabana (discontinued) and NARS Vertebra (discontinued from the Pierre Hardy collection).

Incandescent is the perfect mix of copper, gold and rose. It’s not too metallic on the hands which makes for a more neutralish shimmer. Below compared to Chanel Delight, MAC Soiree, Chanel Rose Moire and Marc Jacobs Le Charm.

Indiscretion proves to be a slightly deeper but brighter pink. Below compared to Tom Ford Trophy Wife, Chanel Pulsion, Chanel Rose Insolent and YSL Rose Babydoll.

I hope these comparisons help with your purchasing decisions!

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Barneys February Love Yourself Event

February 12, 2014
http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=MeQoh28EORo&subid=&offerid=293189.1&type=10&tmpid=12370&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.barneys.com%2Fon%2Fdemandware.store%2FSites-BNY-Site%2Fdefault%2FSearch-Show%3Fcgid%3Dwomens-beauty

The Barneys February Love Yourself Event is here! From February 12-15, spend $250 on cosmetics and fragrances and receive a cosmetics bag filled with our favorites. Valid on U.S. orders only, while supplies last.

I ordered some items from By Terry, L’Artisan and Aesop as a pre-sale several weeks ago. I’m expecting my package soon and am very excited!

http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=MeQoh28EORo&subid=&offerid=293189.1&type=10&tmpid=12370&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.barneys.com%2Fon%2Fdemandware.store%2FSites-BNY-Site%2Fdefault%2FSearch-Show%3Fcgid%3Dwomens-beauty

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Tom Ford Spring 2014 Nail Lacquers | Sugar Dune, Coral Beach, Incandescent and Indiscretion

February 12, 2014

Tom Ford released four new limited-edition nail lacquers for spring in Sugar Dune, Coral Beach, Incandescent and Indiscretion ($32 each for .41 fl oz/20 ml, made in France). The colors together make a beautiful collection perfect for spring. Those who have read my reviews of Tom Ford Nail Lacquers know I wasn’t too thrilled with the formulas for the original release of colors. I’ve found the limited-edition releases to be much better in lasting power, finish and pigment. The new shades for spring have good pigment and last quite long (going on 4 days and counting with Sugar Dune). These four shades come with the limited-edition white caps to match the white packaging on the lipsticks for this collection.

Sugar Dune is a beautiful pink nude cream. It makes for a lovely natural manicure. I’m on the end of day four wearing this and there are no signs of tip wear. I did find this one a bit difficult to apply smoothly. I had to apply three thin coats – each coats need to dry completely before you apply the next coat. If you have patience to apply this one carefully you will be pleased with the color. It has a bit of pink in it to prevent it from being too flesh-toned.

Coral Beach is a semi-sheer coral peach cream color. It’s not quite a jelly finish nail polish but it has a tiny bit of transparency. I found it applied with near-full coverage with two coats. It’s more orangey and less pink than other medium corals but it’s not pure orange. There’s a bit of softness to this that makes it look bright but more natural on the hands.

Incandescent is my favorite color in the collection. It’s a metallic mix of pink, bronze and silver. In sunlight it looks more like a metallic golden rose, in natural light it looks more golden. With two coats you can see a little bit of the brush strokes, but it applies fairly smoothly. This one had a bit of tip wear by day three (as shown below).

Indiscretion is a standard bright pink. It’s a bit brighter and lighter than the other Tom Ford pinks in his regular collection. This one was a bit hard to photograph. On the screen it looks a bit neon but it’s really a straight bright hot pink.

Bottom line – classic shades that will be wearable throughout the entire year. I think you can safely skip Indiscretion since it’s fairly similar to other hot pinks. The remaining three colors are beautiful with Incandescent being the most unique. It has a lovely shimmer frost without being too metallic. I finally ordered nail wheels, expect a comparison post to follow shortly.

The Tom Ford Nail Lacquers for spring are limited-edition at $32 each. You can find them now at Tom Ford Beauty counters, also online at Nordstrom, Saks, Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus and Selfridges.

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MAC Viva Glam Rihanna Lipstick and Lipglass

February 10, 2014

MAC released two new vibrant classic reds for their Viva Glam line with Rihanna. There is a Viva Glam Rihanna Lipstick ($16 for 3g / 0.1 US oz) and a Lipglass ($15 for 4.8 g / 0.17 US oz). The colors are bold with rich pigment. I rarely wear reds but could not resist these two. I’ve missed out on previous limited-edition Viva Glam shades, I did not want to miss out again.

The Viva Glam Rihanna Lipstick is a frost formula. It’s described as a blue-red but on me goes on much warmer without blue tones. It has a metallic warm red frost but on the lips it doesn’t appear too frosty like some MAC Frost formula lipsticks can. It’s a very pigmented bright red color – pigmented enough to cover the entire lip and show up true-to-tube on darker-toned lips. It’s a striking shade – something I’m not brave enough to wear everyday or to the office, although it’s a classic enough shade that I think one can.

The Viva Glam Rihanna Lipglass is a semi-sheer hot pink red infused with tiny red and fuschia micro sparkles. The base is a bit sheerish but layering with a brush will increase the pigment. When worn alone, it’s a bit transparent so you can see a bit of the lip underneath. When layered over lipsticks it adds sparkle and shine.

Both the lipstick and lipglass versions are fairly similar in color, they are almost an exact match. The lipglass flashes a bit more blueish due to the cool-toned sparkles. Swatches side by side:

I pulled a few other darker colors I have to compare. Most of my lipsticks are neutrals or peachy colors. As you can see the darker ones I have are still more on the neutral side. Below shown is MAC Viva Glam IV Lipstick, MAC Viva Glam VI Lipstick and Lipglass, MAC Astral Cremesheen Glass (discontinued), Chanel Pink Pulsion Glossimer (discontinued) and Burberry Mallow Pink Lip Gloss (swatched here).

Both are classic reds I think are truly universally flattering. I’m not sure that I think I could pull them off for everyday or for every occasion, but I do think I can wear them for more special occasions. The pigment of the lipstick is very impressive. I wish more MAC lipsticks had that kind of color payoff (although I am a huge fan of the sheers and lustres). Did you pick up the new Viva Glam Rihanna shades? What’s your favorite Viva Glam to date?

MAC Viva Glam Rihanna Lipstick and Lipglass are both available at all MAC stores and counters now. Online at Maccosmetics.com, Nordstrom, Bloomingdales and Macy’s.